Видео

Hi there Tony! Thanks mate! During COVID this video exploded - lots of people looked for boom arms to put webcams, microphones, to start making videos at home… it actually helped us paying the bills during that period. I need to update you: this year I finally gave up on the Blue Compass - it is not bad, but I really prefer the parallel motion of the Rode PSA1 - I have 4 of them in my desk now 🤣

@@GeekDetour crazyyyy you replied and actually told me this CRUCIAL info !!! 😭😭😭 because I was getting ready to order the compass tomorrow 💀 lmao , I guess I’m going straight to my Best Buy and getting that rode 😭🤣🤣🤣

Obrigado, Lucas! É só falado em inglês mesmo - mas tem Subtítulos em Português que eu faço manualmente pra todos os vídeos

I got it two weeks before it was announced - because… that’s what I do for living 😂 I am a professional RUclipsr. This was my review of the Saturn 4 Ultra: ruclips.net/video/mL6bE-EeG34/видео.htmlsi=i7buSnyLWd3EYufS

@@GeekDetour teach me your ways I always wanted to start a 3d printing RUclips channel, did you get it for free?

Gaps in the first layer you need to adjust the z-offset. That’s an easy thing. Search for how to adjust Z-offset Ender 3 S1

Ha ha ha, I agree! BUT: Apple made something insanely beautiful and mesmerizing. For the most part of the product life, accessible screws are a visual distraction, and it would invite people to service it themselves (which is something Apple didn’t want). From the design standpoint I love it. When it was time to fix it I hated it 🤣

You're welcome

I am from Brazil 🤣

You need to check which insert you will buy - you have 3 very common different sizes (external diameter and length) for M3 inserts. The one I use the most has 4mm external diameter and that’s the hole size I model on the parts.

🤪 It’s funny because I should have touched every single button on the UI and I didn’t. But I was not the only one to overlook this 🤣 8 tests are really ideal when you are using a new resin for the first time.

Thanks! Next week I will release a video that will show it quite clear - and I will release a model and instructions for the order on 4, 6 and 8 tests (yeah, you can have 4, 6 or 8… saw it after I released my review 🫣 look: ruclips.net/user/shorts1YDN2oVcC8I?si=CLPWTX62ZrloBsAO

@@GeekDetour Thank you! I just spend WAY too much time realizing "FRONT" in Chitubox does not mean the the edge of the build plate that faces the FRONT. The arrow and "Front" label actually designates the edge of the plate that slides onto the the handle. In otherwords, in Chitubox "Front" faces the rear. I only realized after adding tags and numbering 6 models. One failed and stuck to the film. I was able to see the numbering system. I then looked at chitubox basic which uses the build plate in the UI, where PRO just has the grid. It's VERY confusing.

@@GeekDetour Just a heads up. I've been having issues all day with half my build plate not sticking. Running a 6 zone calibration I only get 4 models. Tried different models, different slicers, different filaments, changed the film twice, cleaned the plate, etc. There are now a few posts on reddit and Facebook with people having similar issues.

A lot has changed since I published this video - manufacturers became aware of the problem, the feature has been implemented in better ways, some printers use faster storage too… in time this video will be just a historic record of the problems 3D Printing went through 🤣

@@GeekDetour My comment was mostly about chance of failing the print after a power loss, and yet, with 2 hours of delay everything prints perfectly. Handling of such situations improved over the years drastically, really.

Are you talking about the price of the Soldering Iron? or the Inserts? The inserts were kind of expensive 3 years ago! Now they are available everywhere and way cheaper 🤗

Yeah, I'm talking about the inserts :)

Your best chance is to post photos of your prints on the Ender 3 S1 Pro Users Group on Facebook. Without seeing your prints it is impossible to know exactly what is going on with your printer.

Sure! The most reliable way to have it straight is to use a perpendicular machine 🤗 But for most casual makers, a press looks expensive and overkill - so, I wanted to show how you can get good-enough inserts on the cheap 👍👌

(puede responder en ingles, entiendo, solo soy flojo para escribir jajajaja)

Hola Juan, que tal? Vivo en España 🇪🇸 Así que, bien 👌 Pues, tanto la Ender 3 S1 Pro como las Neptune siguen siendo muy buenas impresoras - y las uso a cada semana. Pero el mercado ha cambiado mucho en este año, año y medio. Sin duda, las Bambu están MUY buenas, y poder imprimir múlticolor / multimaterial es una pasada. La Bambu A1 Combo es mi recomendación en términos de posibilidades vs precio. Creality con las K1 y K2 ofrecen velocidades impresionantes también - y también están para lanzar multicolor. QIDI tiene maquinas muy rápidas - y las Elegoo Neptune 4 (Pro, Plus o Max) tienen muy buena relación calidad precio (pero sin multicolor). Hay muchas buenas opciones para distintos bolsillos. Está más limitado a cuanto quieres/puedes pagar que por “cuál máquina es la mejor para empezar”. Creality, Elegoo y Bambu tienen comunidades muy grandes y es muy fácil aprender, quitar dudas, solventar problemas - que si, cosas pasan hasta con las Bambu. Conoces el canal “Control 3D”? Las reviews son muy completas, todo en Español - es producido por un amigo. Hecha un vistazo porque el ha hecho muchas reviews.

@@GeekDetour 🤯🤯🤯 pues sin decir mucho, tú me respondiste preguntas que también tenía en mente. Wow en serio me haz aclarado mucho el panorama y justo con lo que necesitaba saber, nuevamente muchas gracias y echaré un vistazo a lo que me has recomendado. mucho éxito y seguiré tus recomendaciones.

(Whispering) I… DONT knowww…. 🤫🤷‍♂️ Maybe it’s a way to get you very close and intimate 🧏‍♂️

4mm, sometimes 4.2mm - for the inserts I have. But there are M3 inserts that have a bigger external diameter: 5mm. So you first need to chose and buy your inserts. Make a small test part with a couple of hole sizes for you to decide what’s good for you.

Hi there! Nope, it doesn't replicate / reposition your single model. You actually need to prepare a build plate with clones of the model, on the right places. The tool only manages to partition the screen, applying the exposure times you entered.

@@GeekDetour Awesome. So I replicate eight tests and hit go. How do you line up the 8 clones on the build plate or does it expose them automatically? Last question I promise I know youre busy!

When you use the Resin Calibration Tool, you set the times and import the model you prepared. Print from the tool - it will apply the respective times on each zone.

Also, consider adding a de-esser into the mix.

Sure! A couple of people gave me basically the same suggestions - on my last video I used a de-Esser and a declicker that reduced the bubbly mouth clicking sounds that are annoying.

I won't say the 8k resins are just the same. But the difference in terms of visible details is very hard to grasp at naked eye. A couple of weeks ago I watched a very interesting video about it: ruclips.net/video/UCPCsemKCS4/видео.htmlsi=B7t6m0mE5SXuqF5z

@@GeekDetour Thank you for the reply I will take a look!

Ha ha ha, yeah! I saw it yesterday “by accident” and I freaked out 🤣 Just pay attention to the order in the build plate - it is a bit confusing.

Thanks! Get a washing & curing stations - it is mandatory to cure resin prints properly and easily. I have zero experience in painting, you should definitely subscribe to FauxHammer - he does exactly what you are getting into: youtube.com/@fauxhammer?si=TbdD_wzFCWWXwagQ Welcome to 3D Printing!

@@GeekDetour Wow that was fast!! Acabei de olhar seu canal mais a fundo e ver que tu é Brasileiro também, que maneiro cara! Continua com esse conteúdo! O inglês ta voando, parabéns! Também assisti alguns vídeos do Faux hoje mais cedo. Valeu pela dica!

Awesome! Thank you! ❤️ And welcome to the channel!

Oh, thank you! 🤣 Now that I have a name for them, they work an order of magnitude better! 😜 Just teasing you 👍

Oh, good Lord… I would prefer fixing it and printing again. I used the… oh… ah, the ugly “Spacers” just the way you saw in the video. In the ceiling you cannot really notice the difference.

The first kit I Really loved as a kid was one of electricity: you could make solenoids, a very rudimentary but highly entertaining motor, a ring bell, many experimenta with magnetism, photovoltaic experiments… and a bunch of electrostatic experiments - I made and remade many of them. I think the Arduino Kits miss movement, in general, it is kind of “abstract” what’s happening inside of the microcontroller - I am still looking for a kit that would truly captivate kids, because, let’s be honest: making an LED blink is not exciting. On the other hand, moving anything with a motor is always cool. Servos, stepper motors, these are very captivating. Not all kids enjoy Arduino - but there is only one way to know 🤷‍♂️